Stories about Asian gems

Sattar Yekta
7 min readJul 12, 2021
Asian Gemstones

Emerald
Emerald mining has occurred in the Panjshir Valley of Afghanistan for thousands of years and over the past two decades the emeralds produced from this region have become one of Afghanistan’s most valuable gemstone resources (Bowersox and Chamberlin 1995 ; Groat et al. 2008 ). Traditionally, such mining has occurred as artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM), wherein relatively simple tools such as pick-axes and shovels are used by individual (or small groups of) miners to extract the Gemstones from the host rock.

Emerald

However, throughout this region explosives are also used to tunnel, break up the host rock, and liberate the emeralds. This practice of uncontrolled blasting results in significant breakage of the Emerald crystals, substantially reducing the overall recovery of emeralds of each site (Bowersox and Chamberlin 1991). Anecdotal reporting suggests that 40–60% of Emerald crystals are destroyed or damaged by blasting, but no known studies are available to definitively determine the impact this practice has on productivity.

Although some research has been done on the geology and mineralogy of Emerald and gemstone deposits in this region (Samarin and Akkermantsev 1977 ; Pasekov and Yurgenson 1980 ; Bowersox 1985 ; Bowersox and Chamberlin 1995 ; Snee et al. 2005 ) few official records exist to document the locations, techniques, productivity, and yield of various mining operations.

Furthermore, the remoteness and difficulty in accessing the Panjshir Valley, combined with the complex and volatile political situation of Afghanistan makes direct field observation of this region high risk at the current time.
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Turquoise
China is by far the world’s largest supplier of Turquoise at the present time, probably more than 80% of the stone on the U.S. market today is Chinese due to the scarcity of American turquoise. The vast majority of Chinese Turquoise mined and sold here in the US is of a lower grade, and is often treated with plastic resin, oil or paraffin wax (a method much inferior to stabilization with plastic resins).

Turquoise

This is simply a function of the geology of the formation of the Chinese deposits. However, Chinese Turquoise actually can be found in a full range of colors, grades and qualities. Because the lower grade material is the vast majority of the production, it is the cheap, low quality product that most people are familiar with. There is a gem-grade Chinese that sells for up to $1200/pound but it’s rare and most people will never see it; it’s set in Gold right away, and sold mostly in the orient.

The highest grades from a few of the Chinese mines actually display Turquoise colors reminiscent of the much prized blues and greens from some of the famous mines of Nevada. When available, this gem grade material is sold by the gram in the rough, valued by the carat as finished gems. However, in general, American Turquoise of equal grade commands a higher price, and in fact unscrupulous dealers sometimes sell fine Chinese material as. It’s just that there’s more Chinese available, so American is more valuable (at least to us Americans).

Still, fine gem grade Chinese Turquoise is extremely rare and valuable. It is important to know what you are actually buying, as American Turquoise should, and will, always cost more (if you can get a guarantee that it’s really natural American material).
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Jade
An anecdote that cemented her gratitude for the gemstone was told to her as a young child. “My paternal and maternal grandparents were Chinese and immigrated to Southeast Asia in the 1940s to flee communism. My father was born in Cambodia and my mother was born in Laos,” she explains. “The story starts with my paternal grandfather’s journey to Cambodia.

Jade

He was the only unmarried one in his family and therefore immigrated alone, leaving behind his parents and siblings. His father passed onto him his Jade ring, which was meant to protect him on his journey. He had a near-death incident and attributed his safety to this treasured jade.”

In 1975, when the Khmer Rouge took power, her grandfather had to surrender his possessions, (including the Jade ring) and he ultimately did not survive. “I feel a sense of connection to him when I wear jade,” she shares. It’s these deeply personal ties and a broader sense of heritage that inspired Ung to create Ren — a newly-launched modern Jade jewelry brand that translates to ‘humanity’ in Chinese.
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Agate
Moss Agate is a semi-precious gemstone formed from silicon dioxide. It is a form of chalcedony which includes Minerals of a green colour embedded in the stone, forming filaments and other patterns suggestive of moss. The field is a clear or milky-white quartz, and the included Minerals are mainly oxides of manganese or iron.

Agate

It is not a true form of agate, as it lacks agate’s defining feature of concentric banding. Moss Agate is of the white variety with green inclusions that resemble moss. It occurs in many locations. The colors are formed due to trace amounts of metal present as an impurity, such as chrome or iron. The metals can make different colors depending on their valence (oxidation state).
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Amber
The English word “amber” derives from Arabic ʿanbar عنبر‎ via Middle Latin ambar and Middle French ambre. The word was adopted in Middle English in the 14th century as referring to what is now known as ambergris (ambre gris or “grey amber”), a solid waxy substance derived from the sperm whale.

Amber

In the Romance languages, the sense of the word had come to be extended to Baltic Amber (fossil resin) from as early as the late 13th century.

At first called white or yellow Amber (ambre jaune), this meaning was adopted in English by the early 15th century. As the use of ambergris waned, this became the main sense of the word.

Although Amber is a popular gemstone, it isn’t actually a stone. This material, actually the hardened resin of ancient trees, often contains bits of plants and small animals, such as insects. These inclusions of preserved remains, coupled with amber’s warm feel, may have stimulated the beginnings of Amber symbolism. Cultures from all over the world have associated Amber with spirits of the natural world and The Sun.

Depending on where the mine is, the age when the Amber was formed differs. “Amber is produced more along the coasts of the Baltic Sea,” said Long Roger, curator at the Myanmar Amber Museum in Yangon. “But Amber produced in Myanmar comes from the Cretaceous Period when dinosaurs lived, and it gives us a lot of clues about the ecology of that period.”
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Ruby
Helzberg has many locations through the US and also operates online. THey have many options for affordable Ruby jewelry set in sterling silver. Keep in mind that these will be most likely lab created rubies. Lab created rubies are real rubies, just made in a lab instead of the ground. Since they’re easier to make, they’re cheaper. In a controlled lab environment, these pieces also tend to have less inclusions and better color. Check out this lab created Ruby.

Ruby

The traditional source of Ruby is Myanmar, formerly called Burma. Burma rubies, which are rarer than diamond, originate in the Mogok Valley, where the gems weather out of hard rock in the surrounding Eastern Himalayas. This source has produced most of the world’s most famous rubies, and for good reason. The deposits here are low in iron, and the absence of this element allows rubies to have a really glowing red color, literally. Iron suppresses fluorescence in rubies, making their color less vibrant.
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Diamond
You can tell the difference between a Diamond and white sapphire by looking at them side by side with the naked eye. A Diamond has noticeably more brilliance (white light that reflects back to your eye) as well as fire (colored light that reflects back to your eye). Diamonds also look more transparent, while white sapphires have a more cloudy or dull appearance to them. Diamonds are more durable and scratch-resistant, whereas white sapphires can be scratched. White sapphires also show buildup of soap and dirt more easily.

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